4381 Lassiter at North Hills Ave., in the North Hills complex, Raleigh; 781-3919.
Cuisine: Steakhouse, American.
Rating: 3 stars
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Atmosphere: contemporary, with a Wild West motif.
Recommended: Sweetbreads, oysters Norfleet, yellowfin tuna, steaks, desserts.
Open: Dinner nightly.
Other: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover; full bar; smoking section; get a sitter.
The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in five categories:
4 stars: Extraordinary.
3 stars: Excellent.
2 stars: Good.
1 star: Fair.
Zero stars: Poor
For descriptions and reviews of more restaurants, use the searchable database at http://triangle.com/dining/.