410-320 Market St., in Southern Village, Chapel Hill, 933-1188, www.merlionfood.com.
Rating: 2 1/2 stars
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Atmosphere: upscale casual, with an understated Malaysian accent
Service: welcoming, and usually efficient
Recommended: sate, stuffed you tiao, Hainanese chicken rice, temasek sambal fish, Hokkien noodle, nasi lemak
Open: Lunch and dinner daily.
Other: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover; full bar; smoke-free; vegetarian-friendly; accommodates children
The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in five categories:
4 stars: Extraordinary.
3 stars: Excellent.
2 stars: Good.
1 star: Fair.
Zero stars: Poor
For descriptions and reviews of more restaurants, use the searchable restaurant database at http://triangle.com/dining/.