Restaurant News & Reviews

The Menu: The search for the transcendental sandwich

jleonard@newsobserver.com

A sandwich search

The Pharmacy Cafe in Raleigh

Linus & Peppers in Raleigh

Bona Fide Sandwich Co. in Hillsborough.

Originally reviewed by Greg Cox on 6/9/2016

It’s hard to beat the trusty sandwich for quick sustenance, but let’s face it: The sandwich that rises to the level of a memorable meal is rare indeed. It could be the locally baked artisanal bread that makes it special, or the house-cured brisket. Maybe it’s the trimmings – a sauce that strikes the perfect chord, say, or onions grilled just so, or even the pickle. In the case of these three sandwich shops that have come on the scene in the last year or so, it might just be all of the above.

At Bona Fide, the best-seller “by a mile” is an homage to local pork called The Noble Pig: smoked pork loin, bacon and ham with Cabot cheddar, green apple slaw, Dijon mustard and bacon mayo on a grill-pressed sub roll.

At Linus & Peppers you can get The Big Cheese: a molten alloy of white cheddar, Swiss and smoked gouda with roasted mushrooms, caramelized onions and Romesco sauce for peppery punch.

And a favorite at The Pharmacy is The Duck: succulent shreds of braised duck, napa slaw, pickled carrot, hoisin and a streak of Sanjay hot sauce, served on a lightly toasted baguette.

Read the full review and others at our restaurant review archive, themenunc.com.

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