Restaurant News & Reviews

The Menu: Sweet harmonies from Mandolin’s kitchen in Raleigh

Sean Fowler, the chef at Mandolin in Raleigh, is a regular client of Will Taber’s. Fowler uses Taber’s quail eggs in a variety of dishes, such as this hickory grilled nooherooka beef ribeye with grilled potatoes, heirloom tomatoes, beet-pickled quail eggs, house-made peanut Worcestershire sauce and frisée salad. Fowler likes to cook the quail eggs (seen in this dish) in beet juice which turns the egg whites a bright purple and leaves the yolk yellow.
Sean Fowler, the chef at Mandolin in Raleigh, is a regular client of Will Taber’s. Fowler uses Taber’s quail eggs in a variety of dishes, such as this hickory grilled nooherooka beef ribeye with grilled potatoes, heirloom tomatoes, beet-pickled quail eggs, house-made peanut Worcestershire sauce and frisée salad. Fowler likes to cook the quail eggs (seen in this dish) in beet juice which turns the egg whites a bright purple and leaves the yolk yellow. jleonard@newsobserver.com

Mandolin

1/2

2519 Fairview Road, Raleigh

mandolinraleigh.com

Originally reviewed by Greg Cox on 5/11/2012

Chilled pea soup with country ham and béarnaise sauce, a recent offering on owner/chef Sean Fowler’s daily showcase of local produce, evokes just as many satisfied moans as a foie gras torchon with pain perdu and poached pears – for half the price.

You certainly won’t forget Fowler’s rendition of the soul food classic, chicken and waffles. An exquisitely juicy breast with a shatter-crisp crust takes center stage, with buckwheat waffle and braised mustard greens in supporting roles.

The crowning touch is a bacon-mushroom foam, one of the molecular gastronomy techniques that the chef occasionally employs to add cutting-edge pizazz to a menu whose roots are firmly planted in Southern tradition. Another contemporary culinary riff takes the form of an egg, poached in an immersion circulator into an oval of silk that oozes when pierced with a fork, saucing an impeccable pan-seared flounder.

Read the full review and others at our restaurant review archive, themenunc.com.

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