Mouthful

Updated with photos: Raleigh’s Standard Foods to open Thursday

Ratatouille with late summer vegetables and a fried egg served over grits. This is one of the new dishes at the revamped Standard Foods, opening Thursday.
Ratatouille with late summer vegetables and a fried egg served over grits. This is one of the new dishes at the revamped Standard Foods, opening Thursday. Courtesy of Standard Foods

Raleigh’s Standard Foods restaurant will reopen Thursday with a new management team: master sommelier Fred Dexheimer and chef Eric Montagne.

The well-regarded restaurant has been closed since June after chef Scott Crawford announced he was leaving to open another restaurant down the street. Standard Foods’ butcher shop and grocery store have remained open while the restaurant was revamped.

The new management team is eager to open their doors at 5:30 p.m. Thursday and are already accepting reservations on Open Table.

“We’ve put together what I think is a pretty good diverse menu and a service style that we think will resonate with the neighborhood,” Dexheimer said.

Dexheimer said the menu is designed to let people sample a wide array of food and wines. There is a selection of small plates (pate, beef tartare, hot and cold oysters, shrimp toasts, chicken livers, all $12 or under) that can be paired with a glass or a 3-ounce taste of wine. The menu graduates to larger plates ($18-$28) that are inspired by the butcher’s shop and market. Those include a whole fried snapper with hot honey and corn crepes, a daily cut from the butcher’s counter and a daily market side.

Dexheimer said the constantly evolving wine list will include about 100 offerings with 50 bottles under $50. He said the selection will be what diners may expect to see at high-end restaurants and wine bars. The restaurant also will offer a bar menu with cocktails, many of which are inspired by produce sold at the market or grown in the restaurant’s garden beds.

“We feel like we’re utilizing Standard Foods as a whole concept with the market and butcher shop,” Dexheimer explained.

Triangle diners may be familiar with Dexheimer, one of only about 140 master wine sommeliers in the country who bills himself as the only one in the Carolinas. He most recently worked at The Black House at Straw Valley in Durham, which closed in March 2015.

Dexheimer had plans to open a wine-focused restaurant on Glenwood South with Montagne, the former chef of the Boiler Room Oyster Bar in Kinston. (The Boiler Room is the second restaurant from chef Vivian Howard, owner of Chef & The Farmer and star of the award-winning PBS show “A Chef’s Life.”) Their landlord on Glenwood South was developer John Holmes, who also owns Standard Foods. The trio decided to team up to reopen Standard Foods.

Dexheimer runs the front the house and Montagne runs the kitchen; both are bringing employees who have worked with them for several years. Standard Foods’ new butcher is Jeremy Hardcastle, who most recently worked at Left Bank Butchery in Saxapahaw.

The combined restaurant, butcher shop and grocery store was Raleigh’s most highly-anticipated restaurant opening last year. It was a project between Holmes and Crawford, the former executive chef at the upscale Umstead Hotel and Spa in Cary. In February, Cox gave a four-star review to Standard Foods. Crawford announced in March that he was leaving to open Crawford & Son in the former Piebird space, about a block away from Standard Foods. Crawford’s new restaurant is expected to open this fall.

Standard Foods is at 209 E. Franklin St., Raleigh. Info: 919-307-4652; standard-foods.com.

Weigl: 919-829-4848;

Twitter: @andreaweigl

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