Mouthful

Triangle restaurants, bakery make Bon Appetit’s best restaurant list

Bon Appetit magazine’s 50 Best Restaurants list includes two Triangle spots: chef Ashley Christensen’s Death & Taxes in Raleigh (shown) and chef Andrea Reusing’s restaurant at The Durham Hotel in Durham.
Bon Appetit magazine’s 50 Best Restaurants list includes two Triangle spots: chef Ashley Christensen’s Death & Taxes in Raleigh (shown) and chef Andrea Reusing’s restaurant at The Durham Hotel in Durham. jleonard@newsobserver.com

Bon Appetit magazine’s 50 Best Restaurants list includes two Triangle spots: chef Ashley Christensen’s Death & Taxes in Raleigh and chef Andrea Reusing’s restaurant at The Durham Hotel in Durham.

The magazine described Death & Taxes as “Christensen’s most ambitious restaurant to date: a marble, leather and dark-wood–clad Southern brasserie built for a memorable night out.” Christensen, who won a James Beard award for Best Chef Southeast in 2014, opened Death & Taxes in 2015; it is her fifth restaurant in downtown Raleigh.

About The Durham, the magazine wrote: “Unlike the Asian-leaning menu at Reusing’s Lantern in Chapel Hill, the Durham is all Americana, all the time. The main restaurant – a graphic, 60s-ish room with two-story windows just off the lobby – serves a pickled-vegetable “relish tray,” crab cakes with crab mayonnaise, and a rich dry-aged burger on a buttered potato bun. And yet for what is essentially a hotel restaurant, Reusing manages to push the envelope.”

Reusing won a James Beard award for Best Chef Southeast in 2011. She owns Lantern in Chapel Hill; the restaurant at the Durham Hotel is her second venture and opened in 2015.

Beyond those 50 best new restaurant picks, there was some other “best new” picks.

Among the best new pizza restaurants is Pizzeria Mercato in Carrboro, which is the work of chef Gabe Barker who opened the pizzeria with his parents Ben and Karen Barker, the James Beard-award-winning chefs who used to own Magnolia Grill in Durham.

Here’s what the magazine wrote about Pizzeria Mercato: “You don’t need a fancy, custom-built oven or oddball toppings to win our pizza hearts. All you need are good ingredients and attention to detail, both of which chef Gabe Barker’s got in spades. His mustard green, fennel sausage, and chile pie, on a perfectly charred crust, could start on the UNC basketball team. It’s that dominating.”

And Raleigh’s Boulted Bread was among the best new bakeries. Here’s what they wrote: “All the flour used here is milled in-house, and you can taste it. As good as the bread is, the pastries and baked goods—morning buns, croissants, lemon bars—might be even better. Why not experiment and decide for yourself?”

(We won’t bother to tell Bon Appetit that Boulted opened in 2014.)

To see the complete list, go to bonappetit.com/best-new-restaurants.

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