Gran Sabana

Triangle Square Shopping Center, 4853 N.C. 55, Durham.

544-5855.

Cuisine: Latin American.

Rating: ** 1/2

Prices: entrees average less than $10.

Atmosphere: shoestring spare.

Service: eager to please (lunch served cafeteria-style).

Recommended: empanadas, pabellon, pernil asado.

Open: lunch and dinner daily.

Reservations: not accepted.

Other: Visa, MasterCard; no alcohol; smoke-free; kid-friendly.

The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in four categories:

**** Among the Triangle's very best.

*** Rewarding experience.

** Generally acceptable.

* Hit-or-miss.

See Greg Cox's weekly

e-picurean column and check out the searchable restaurant database at http://triangle.com/dining/.

This story was originally published May 23, 2003 at 3:00 AM with the headline "Gran Sabana."