Papas Grille

Loehmann's Plaza, 1821 Hillandale Road, Durham. 383-8502.

http://www.papasgrille.com/ pages/1/index.htm.

Cuisine: Greek, Mediterranean.

Rating: ** 1/2

Prices: entrees $17 to $25.

Atmosphere: white tablecloth and Greek island mural.

Service: efficient

and reserved.

Recommended: dolmades, apricot-stuffed chicken breast, whole grilled fish, sauteed lamb loin.

Open: Lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Monday-Saturday.

Reservations: recommended on weekends.

Other: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners Club; full bar (excellent wine list); cigar-friendly (lounge only); kid-tolerant.

The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in four categories:

**** Among the Triangle's very best.

*** Rewarding experience.

** Generally acceptable.

* Hit-or-miss.

See Greg Cox's e-picurean column and check out the searchable restaurant database at http://triangle.com/dining/ .

This story was originally published August 22, 2003 at 3:20 AM with the headline "Papas Grille."