EVOO

2519 Fairview Road, Raleigh.

782-3866.

Cuisine: Mediterranean.

Rating: ***

Prices: entrees $11 to $16.

Atmosphere: bistro.

Service: knowledgeable and enthusiastic.

Recommended: iceberg wedge, pecan-crusted goat cheese, wood-fired fish, rack of lamb, pizzas.

Open: lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

Reservations: accepted for parties of 6 or more.

Other: Visa, MasterCard; full bar (modest but well-chosen wine list); kid-friendly.

The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in four categories:

**** Among the Triangle's very best.

*** Rewarding experience.

** Generally acceptable.

* Hit-or-miss.

See Greg Cox's weekly

e-picurean column and check out the searchable restaurant database at http://triangle.com/dining/.

This story was originally published December 6, 2002 at 1:35 AM with the headline "EVOO."