Bistro 607

607 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh.

828-0840, www.bistro607.com.

Cuisine: New American with a French accent.

Rating: ***

Prices: entrees $11 to $16.

Atmosphere: understated elegance in a restored bungalow; sidewalk patio.

Service: attentive and knowledgeable.

Recommended: foie gras, Parmesan cup, roast chicken, rack of lamb.

Open: lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Monday-Saturday.

Reservations: recommended on weekends.

Other: Visa, MasterCard; full bar; smoke-free; get a sitter

The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in five categories:

**** Extraordinary.

*** Excellent.

** Good.

* Fair.

Zero stars: Poor

See Greg Cox's weekly

e-picurean column and check out the searchable restaurant database at http://triangle.com/dining/.

This story was originally published February 13, 2004 at 3:00 AM with the headline "Bistro 607."