Pop's

810 W. Peabody St., Durham

956-7677

Web site: www.pops-durham.com

Cuisine: contemporary Mediterranean

Rating: 3 stars

Prices: $

Atmosphere: bustling urban bistro

Service: efficient and enthusiastic

Recommended: fried calamari, mussels, risotto, grilled rib-eye, fried okra, creme brulee

Open: Dinner nightly.

Reservations: accepted.

Other: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover; full bar; kid-tolerant; patio.

The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in five categories:

**** Extraordinary.

*** Excellent.

** Good.

* Fair.

Zero stars: Poor

For descriptions and reviews of more restaurants, use the searchable restaurant database at http://triangle.com/dining/.

This story was originally published July 29, 2005 at 3:00 AM with the headline "Pop's."