The Menu: Fiction Kitchen’s vegetarian menu has broad appeal

☆☆☆ 1/2

428 S. Dawson St., Raleigh

thefictionkitchen.com

Originally reviewed by Greg Cox on 8/9/2013

You may find it hard to believe that the soy protein “chicken” in The Fiction Kitchen’s take on chicken and waffles is not in fact a boneless, skinless breast. Even allowing for the fact that the vegan Belgian waffle is not as light and fluffy as a traditional waffle, the dish is nonetheless a convincing one.

Nor is it a big stretch, when you bite into a tinga taco, to imagine that you’re in a taqueria. Granted, the pale green of the nopales tortilla is a giveaway, as is the quinoa that dots an accompanying bowl of cumin- and cinnamon-tinged black beans. But the meaty, well-spiced shreds spilling out of the tacos are on the money, and the coarse slaw that’s piled on top supplies a delightfully crunchy contrast.

And there’s nothing faux – but everything to like – about a North Carolina grit cake paired with a charred corn and tomato salad. Same goes for the locavore salad, which recently showcased ripe watermelon and crisp romaine dressed in a basil vinaigrette.

This story was originally published July 6, 2016 at 1:00 PM with the headline "The Menu: Fiction Kitchen’s vegetarian menu has broad appeal."