Restaurant News & Reviews

The Menu: A look back at Greg Cox’s Counting House review

hlynch@newsobserver.com

Counting House

111 N. Corcoran St., Durham

countinghousenc.com

Originally reviewed by Greg Cox on 9/18/2015

Entering Counting House, the restaurant in the new 21c Museum Hotel in downtown Durham, the eye is drawn immediately upward to the animals mounted on the walls. Like trophies of a hunter who has pursued game in worlds both real and imaginary, the collection runs the gamut from a fairly realistic-looking rhinoceros head to a downright phantasmagoric 10-legged tiger. The entire menagerie was fashioned from recycled materials, and it’s just part of the hotel’s extensive collection of modern art.

The artistry extends to the open show kitchen at Counting House, where executive chef Josh Munchel – a 21c veteran who previously helped Metropole, the restaurant in the chain’s hotel in Cincinnati, win a place on Bon Appétit magazine’s list of Best New Restaurants 2013 – is in charge. Working in a style that he describes as “using local ingredients to create global flavors,” Munchel turns out one Instagram-worthy dish after another.

Read the full review and others at our restaurant review archive, themenunc.com.

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