This Afghan soup will ward off winter’s chill

Aush, a fragrant, sienna-colored, deeply spiced Afghan soup, takes its name from the flat wheat noodles, often spelled “ash,” that turn silken as they cook with vegetables, lemon juice, yogurt and ground sumac. The Kite Runner Cafe in Arlington, Va., serves this meatless version as well as aush with beef. It’s homey, humble and sure to ward off a winter’s chill.

Aush Vegetable Soup

1 or 2 Roma tomatoes, chopped

1/2 small red onion

2 or 3 cilantro stems with leaves

2 garlic cloves

1/2 unseeded jalapeño pepper

1 rib celery, chopped

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 teaspoons turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 (15-ounce) can no-salt-added chickpeas, rinsed and drained

1 1/2 cups frozen mixed vegetables

1 cup frozen chopped spinach

2 ounces long, dried flat wheat noodles

1 tablepoon fresh chopped dill

1 teaspoon dried mint

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup plain, whole-milk yogurt

1 1/2 teaspoons ground sumac

PULSE tomatoes, red onion, cilantro stems with leaves, garlic, jalapeño pepper and celery in a food processor until finely chopped. With the motor running, drizzle in 2 tablespoons olive oil to form a coarse paste.

HEAT 2 tablespoons olive oil in a deep pot over medium heat. Stir in the vegetable paste; cook for a few minutes until softened and fragrant.

CLEAR a spot at the center of the pot; plop 2 tablespoons tomato paste there and cook, undisturbed, for 2 minutes, then stir it in. Season with ground turmeric, freshly ground black pepper and ground cayenne pepper. Cook for a few minutes, then add chickpeas (rinsed and drained), mixed frozen vegetables and frozen chopped spinach, stirring to incorporate.

POUR in 1 1/2 cups water. Break up 2 ounces long, dried, flat wheat noodles (“ash”) over the pot, letting the pieces fall in, then add 4 1/2 cups water. Increase the heat to medium-high; once the mixture comes to a boil, cook for about 6 minutes, stirring a few times.

ADD dill, mint, coriander, lemon juice and yogurt; the latter will soon thicken the soup. Reduce the heat to medium; cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring a few times, until the noodles have softened and thickened. Taste and season with salt and/or black pepper as needed. For a deeper flavor and color, stir in 1 1/2 teaspoons ground sumac.

IF you’d like, whisk together 4 tablespoons plain, whole-milk yogurt, 1 tablespoon minced cilantro, 1 tablespoon minced jalapeño and 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice in a cup. Spoon into each hot bowlful, along with more minced cilantro.

Yield: 6 servings.