When it comes to corn, think beyond the cob
Summer has its fair share of food stars, from juicy, ripe peaches to char-grilled burgers and hot dogs.
Who amongst us hasn’t leaned over the kitchen sink, devouring fresh tomato sandwiches with Duke’s mayo and tomato juices dripping down our arms? (Hellmann’s fans, I have no time for you.)
Summer is all about the bounty, and one of North Carolina’s most bountiful offerings is corn.
A quick corn primer: North Carolina grows corn for two markets. The largest share grown is commodity corn, destined for animal feed and food processing. Corn is big business in the United States and can be found in virtually everything we eat. (Check the back of almost any packaged food item at your supermarket.)
A much smaller percentage is grown for direct consumption, from stalk to mouth, one might say. It’s this corn that excites me each summer when it starts to show up in my local farmers’ market. Each ear holds a promise of sweet, starchy deliciousness in every bite.
I’m a corn purist at heart. Piping hot ears of sweet corn slathered in butter and salt are my preferred vehicle for corn consumption. I cook them on the stove in hot water or place shucked ears right on the grill to get a nice char.
But even I’ll admit there are times when the tried and true just isn’t enough. Some days you want your corn off the cob.
It turns out I’m not the only one who searches for different ways to enjoy sweet summer corn. I asked local cookbook author and all-around Southern food expert Sheri Castle what she does to spice up her corn repertoire.
“I use corn kernels all sorts of ways, from fritters to stirring it into hot buttered grits, to corn pudding and corn relish,” she said. “I also grill it to use in salsas and salads.”
Another traditional Appalachian treat is sour corn.
“My favorite way to eat sweet corn as a child was corn on the cob,” Castle said. “But that was a fleeting seasonal treat, so my grandmother canned quarts of corn kernels, both fresh and fermented.”
The technique for fermenting corn is similar to making sauerkraut, requiring only corn kernels or whole ears, water, salt – and time, she said.
“I try to make at least one batch of sour corn each year, not only for sentimental reasons and to keep the tradition alive, but also because I love the stuff,” she said. “It’s tangy, salty, crunchy and addictive.”
So this summer, as bushels of sweet corn arrive at grocery stores and markets, think beyond the cob. Try these recipes for corn salad or cold corn soup. And if you must stick to the cob, give a compound butter a chance.
Of course, I will never judge you for enjoying the simple pleasures of hot, buttery, salty corn eaten straight off the cob. Save me an ear and I’ll pull up a seat.
Matt Lardie is a Durham-based freelance writer. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter @matt_lardie.
Corn Salad
This simple corn salad makes a great addition to picnics and cookouts. It can be made up to a day ahead. Just stir and drain off any accumulated liquid before serving. See below for a tip on how to easily cut the kernels off the cob. Recipe by Matthew Lardie.
4 ears sweet corn
2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1 clove garlic, chopped
Pinch sugar
1 pint cherry tomatoes
1 cup diced red onion (about 1 medium onion)
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 cup tightly packed basil leaves
Salt and pepper
Cut the kernels off of the cobs, discarding the cobs or saving them for use in soups or stocks later.
In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute for a minute or until it just starts to brown. Add the corn kernels and a pinch of sugar. Saute 3 to 5 minutes until the corn kernels are warmed through, but not completely cooked.
Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool for a few minutes. Meanwhile, cut each cherry tomato in half and place in a large mixing bowl along with the diced onion and feta cheese. Add the cooled corn to the bowl.
In a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil and white wine vinegar. Pour over the corn salad and gently mix the ingredients together. Shred the basil using your hands and sprinkle over. Add salt and pepper to taste, gently mix again and serve or refrigerate overnight.
Tip: The easiest way to cut kernels off an ear of corn is to invert a small bowl inside of a larger bowl, place the ear of corn pointed-side-up on the bottom of the small bowl, and carefully cut down each side of the ear, allowing the kernels to fall away into the larger bowl.
Chilled Corn Soup
Gazpacho doesn’t need to be the only chilled summer soup in your repertoire. This creamy, smooth corn soup is a great addition to a summer party and a welcome refresher for those steamy North Carolina summer nights. Bonus: You don’t even have to turn your stove on. Recipe by Matthew Lardie.
4 ears of corn
Juice of 1 large lemon
1/2 cup chopped white onion
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves
1 cup buttermilk
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Cut the kernels off the cobs, discarding the cobs or saving them for use in soups or stocks later.
In a large bowl, mix together the corn, lemon juice, onion, garlic and kosher salt. Set aside in a cool place (or your refrigerator) for at least one hour. The acidic lemon juice and the salt will help to “cook” the kernels, remove some of the starchiness.
Meanwhile, blend the olive oil and basil leaves together in a blender or food processor to make basil oil. Set aside.
After an hour, put the corn mixture into a blender and add the buttermilk. Blend on high for 3 to 5 minutes, until everything has broken down and the soup is creamy and smooth.
Add the fresh pepper and taste, adding more salt and pepper if needed.
Serve in chilled bowls or mugs with a few swirls of basil oil swirled on top of the soup. For a party I like to purchase plastic shot glasses and serve the soup as “shooters.”
Compound Butters
Compound, or flavored, butters are a great way to spice up almost anything, but are especially tasty on hot ears of corn. Feel free to use these suggestions, or play around with different combinations. They will keep in the refrigerator, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, for up to a week.
To start with: Use one stick of softened, unsalted butter. I prefer to control the amount of salt, but use salted butter if that is what you have on hand. Just leave out the additional salt. From there you can mix in the following to make:
Lime & Cilantro Butter
Grated zest of one lime
1 tablespoon finely minced cilantro
Big pinch sea salt
Spicy Basil & Jalapeño Butter
2 teaspoons finely minced jalapeño (or to taste)
1 tablespoon finely minced basil
Big pinch sea salt
South of the Border Butter
2 teaspoons finely minced chipotle peppers from a can of chipotle in adobo
1 teaspoon finely minced shallot
1 tablespoon crumbled queso fresco
Big pinch sea salt
Mediterranean Butter
2 teaspoons finely minced olives
1 tablespoon finely minced parsley
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
Big pinch sea salt
This story was originally published August 23, 2017 at 4:26 PM with the headline "When it comes to corn, think beyond the cob."