Food & Drink

8 top spots for authentic Szechwan Chinese cuisine, when you want to spice things up

Order Lamb on toothpicks, which lives up to its name with bite-size morsels of lean lamb, each skewered on a toothpick, and amped up with an avalanche of toasted red chiles (and a jolt of Szechuan peppercorn), and you’ll understand why Derek Huang of Szechuan Taste says the dish is all the rage in New York.
Order Lamb on toothpicks, which lives up to its name with bite-size morsels of lean lamb, each skewered on a toothpick, and amped up with an avalanche of toasted red chiles (and a jolt of Szechuan peppercorn), and you’ll understand why Derek Huang of Szechuan Taste says the dish is all the rage in New York. jleonard@newsobserver.com

I like to consider this a monthly space for foodies, dedicated to answering questions, voicing opinions, and sharing timely tidbits.

This month, we share a plate with reader Matt T., who asks for a sampler platter of area Szechwan restaurants.

Authentic Szechwan cuisine is noted for dishes that pack a one-two spice punch in the form of chiles and mouth-numbing Szechwan peppercorns, though it embraces a wide range of heat levels. But note, that does not the “Szechwan chicken” and the like commonly seen on Chinese takeout menus.

If you’re new to the cuisine, you may want to ease your way in with relatively mild classics such as stir-fried (aka dry-fried) green beans, twice-cooked pork and tea-smoked duck. Then work your way up the Scoville scale to wontons in chile oil, dandan noodles, mapo tofu, chile-riddled Chongqing chicken, and my go-to dish of Cumin lamb.

Pull up a chair and and join the conversation. Email me at ggcox55@gmail.com with your questions about how I review restaurants, or any other burning topic related to the Triangle’s thriving dining scene.

Chengdu 7

748-E E. Chatham St., Cary

919-883-5567 or chengdu7cary.com

My picks: cold noodles, scallion pancake, pork dumplings, ho fun, Chongqing chicken, stir-fried pea tips, dry pot

Chengdu 7’s Sichuan style cold noodles are tossed in a chile-flecked sheen of sesame oil and soy sauce.
Chengdu 7’s Sichuan style cold noodles are tossed in a chile-flecked sheen of sesame oil and soy sauce. Juli Leonard jleonard@newsobserver.com

Gourmet Kingdom

301 E. Main St., Carrboro

919-932-7222 or thegourmetkingdom.com

My picks: Szechwan spicy dried beef, Tian Tin flavor dumplings, sautéed green chile peppers, eggplant in garlic sauce, kung pao lotus root, griddle cooked prawns, fried shredded lamb with cilantro, green onion fried tea-smoked duck

Happy China

2505 Durham-Chapel Hill Blvd., Durham

919-237-2021 or happychinasushi.com

My picks (from the Szechwan menu): dan dan noodle, double cooked pork, fish filet in spicy Szechwan style sauce, dumpling soup, curry beef casserole, pea shoots.

Super Wok

1401 SE Maynard Road, Cary

919-388-8338 or superwokcarync.com

My picks: chicken in chili oil, stir-fried Chinese greens, chicken with three kinds of pepper, spicy vermicelli with minced pork, “squirrel tail” fish, stewed spareribs in sesame sauce, eggplant and garlic hot pot.

The Red Chili Oil Wontons are one of several choices of appetizers at Szechuan Taste in Cary.
The Red Chili Oil Wontons are one of several choices of appetizers at Szechuan Taste in Cary. Juli Leonard jleonard@newsobserver.com

Szechuan Garden

10285 Chapel Hill Road, Suite 300, Morrisville

919-468-6878 or szechuangardennc.com

My picks: homemade dumplings, eggplant “boxes,” squirrel tail fish, tri-pepper chicken, cumin lamb, pea shoots.

Szechuan Taste

6404 Tryon Road, Cary

919-706-5862 or stastecary.com

My picks: lamb on toothpicks, red chile oil wontons, Chongqing chicken, spicy storm fish, Leshan grilled fish, vegetable dishes.

For something milder

And a bonus for anyone craving a milder Taiwanese take on Szechwan cuisine:

Taipei 101

121-A E. Chatham St., Cary

919-388-5885 or carytaipei101nc.com

My picks: scallion roast beef pancakes, mini steam buns, pork cutlet over rice, cumin lamb, Szechwan fish, vegetarian entrees

Taipei Café

9825-G Chapel Hill Road, Morrisville

919-380-8568 or taipeicafemorrisville.com

My picks: crispy shrimp roll, sardines and peanuts, pork chop with rice, crispy fish, three cups chicken, Wu-Shi pork ribs



This story was originally published November 11, 2019 at 3:14 PM.

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