This hot pot restaurant shows how tasty China’s elaborate take on fondue can be

Over the past few months, in keeping with the interactive spirit of this column, I’ve answered your questions on a wide variety of topics, from my favorite vegan eateries to the nuts and bolts of how I go about reviewing restaurants.

This month, I’d like to share something more personal: a confession.

It’s an especially embarrassing confession for a restaurant critic to make. I mean, we’re supposed to be at ease in every situation — from taqueria to fine dining establishment, right?

OK, intellectually I know that’s unrealistic. But that knowledge hasn’t kept me from being intimidated when confronted with a bewildering variety of meats and vegetables, broths to cook them in, and sauces to dip them in — all on a menu, key parts of which are written in a language I couldn’t begin to puzzle out. A wait staff who isn’t prepared to provide guidance for those not familiar with the process doesn’t help.

That’s right, I’m intimidated by Chinese hot pot restaurants. Or I was until recently, when I visited So Hot in Cary for the first time. The experience opened my eyes to just how relaxing and enjoyable China’s elaborate take on fondue can be.

The entire menu is bilingual, for starters (except for pleurotus eryngii, for some reason, which a quick Google search reveals is the Latin name for king trumpet mushroom). It’s clearly laid out by category, starting with the cooking broth options listed under the heading of Soup Base. Pick one, or splurge on a combination of two or more. I like the original and spicy broths.

Next step is to choose (using a digital tablet or checking boxes on the paper menu) from an extensive selection of proteins, vegetables and noodles, thoughtfully listed by category. You get as many as you want for one price, but I’d recommend limiting your selection to a dozen or so for starters. You can always order more.

While your order is being prepared, head to the sauce station. Mix up one of the traditional sauce combinations (Szechwan, Cantonese or Beijing-style) using the recipes provided on a separate sheet. Or create your own custom sauce.

Back at the table, it won’t be long before your order arrives: broth furiously boiling (in a divided pot, if you ordered a combo) and set onto a cooktop built into the table, and the shaved meats, veggies and other goodies you ordered, each in its own colorful dish.

Now you can start cooking. What’s that, you say? You don’t know how long to cook those trumpet mushrooms? So Hot has got you covered there, too. A separate sheet placed on your table gives cooking times by category: mushrooms and tofu take five minutes, give or take. Shaved meats are done in just 10-15 seconds, and green vegetables in 1-2 minutes.

In the unlikely event that you still have questions, So Hot has got you covered with an exceptionally helpful wait staff. Think of it as hot pot with training wheels. And by all means don’t be afraid to take a ride.

So Hot

1937 High House Road, Cary

919-694-5510 or Facebook

This story was originally published February 19, 2020 at 8:30 AM.