Lawrence Barbecue will bring whole hog, brisket — and oysters — to ‘food desert’ RTP
Barbecue and the sea, that’s North Carolina as chef Jake Wood has always known it. This summer, he’ll open his first restaurant devoted to the marriage of smoking meats and shucking oysters.
Lawrence Barbecue, Wood’s much-anticipated barbecue project, is joining the shipping container development Boxyard RTP in Durham. Wood said the restaurant should open in mid to late summer.
Wood, known for stints at 18 Seaboard and Plates Kitchen in Raleigh, said Lawrence Barbecue follows a lifelong affection for playing with fire and a desire to cook more casual food.
“We’ve been tweezing herbs and saucing plates for long enough,” Wood said of his and chef de cuisine Eddie Forbis’ culinary experience. “We’ll focus on delicious food first.”
Lawrence will specialize in whole hog barbecue and Texas-style brisket, rounding out the menu with smoked turkey breast, housemade sausages and “sticky ribs,” Wood said in a phone interview.
The oysters will set Lawrence apart
Beyond the everyday menu, Lawrence will have an often changing menu of small and large plates, dictated by the seasons. There will also be raw and grilled oysters from the North Carolina coast, plus seasonal cocktails, local beer and frose.
“The oysters are the secret potion for us,” Wood said. “I think that will really be what sets us apart. ... For raw oysters we’ll strictly serve N. Sea. Oyster Company, which tastes like you got hit in the head by a wave at Wrightsville Beach, which is what I knew growing up.”
Lawrence is the first restaurant publicly connected to Boxyard, joining popular Durham brewery Fullsteam and new retail projects. Boxyard is being built within the Park Center development, near the intersection of Interstate 40 and N.C. 147.
The restaurant takes its name from Wood’s maternal grandfather, the late Allen Lawrence.
“He was a huge inspiration to me,” Wood said. “He was a waterman, he taught me how to butcher fish and animals from a young age. Those are memories I hold close to me.”
The restaurant will be counter service and situated in the middle of busy RTP. Wood sees the office park as in desperate need of more lunch options.
“It’s a food desert,” Wood said. “It’s in a crowded location; we look forward to reaching that lunch crowd there. It’s really a chance to bridge the gap between Raleigh and Durham.”
The Triangle’s barbecue bonanza
The Triangle in general and Raleigh specifically are at the beginning of a barbecue bonanza. This year, a number of high profile restaurants will open, all serving their interpretation of the state’s signature food.
Wood has built buzz for Lawrence Barbecue with a months-long Instagram campaign, slicing fat-dripping brisket and smoking hogs. While choosing RTP as his launching point, Wood made it clear that he has bigger plans, eventually seeing Lawrence Barbecue adding locations in Raleigh, Wilmington and Charlotte if things go well.
“It’s not a one and done thing,” Wood said. “We’re creating this brand.”
This story was originally published January 14, 2020 at 10:41 AM.
