Coronavirus Diary: Maximillians’ food and service shows why loyal following has grown
The last time I reviewed Maximillians, back in 2016, longtime employees Margie and Will Hennessee had just bought the place. In that review, I noted that the couple had managed to put their own imprint on the restaurant while retaining the spirit of a place whose maverick style and globetrotting fusion menu had made it a local favorite for a quarter-century.
Judging by Maximillians’ Facebook feed, the new owners struck the perfect balance. Interspersed among the daily changing handwritten menu posted on the site, evidence of a loyal following is abundant: here’s a photo of the owners and staff wearing masks given to them by a fan, there’s a bouquet of flowers given by another, everywhere words of thanks, encouragement and rave reviews.
More than one of those fans took the time to email me, recommending Maximillians’ contact-free curbside takeout. A couple of weeks ago, I took them up on their suggestion.
The person who took my order over the phone was friendly and exceptionally helpful, even going the extra mile to hunt down the last remaining bottle of wine I wanted. (Pro tip: Maximillians’ excellent wine selection is curated by Margie Hennessee, who clearly learned a thing or two about wine during her years as Maximillians’ bar manager. All bottles are 25% off.)
A few hours later, when I called to let them know I had arrived, another (the same?) friendly person wearing a mask promptly came out and placed my order in the car.
The food lived up to those rave reviews, too. A grilled Caesar evoked memories of the first one I had years ago — at Maximillians, as it happens. Fried calamari in a sheer, spicy-sweet General Tso’s glaze hadn’t lost nearly as much crispness during the drive home as I had feared. And the large, blistery fried wonton shell it was served on doubled down on the crispy factor.
The aptly named Demon Shrimp (one of several dishes that have earned signature status over the years) netted a catch of plump jumbos in a vibrant medley of snow peas, corn, poblano peppers, avocado, cilantro and a red chile pesto-cumin cream. At the other end of the spectrum, a juicy filet mignon served with grilled asparagus and risotto riddled with Fox Farm and Forage mushrooms, nailed its assignment of being a conservative — by no means staid — alternative to the bold tropical flavors that are woven throughout much of the menu.
A moist slab of coconut cake brought the meal to a happy conclusion. The fact that it was big enough to share was (sorry, couldn’t resist) icing on the cake.
Maximillians’ owners are taking a cautious approach to reopening the dining room.
“We’ll wait and see how it goes over the next few weeks,” Margie Hennessee says, before deciding when and how they’ll reopen. “But we plan to continue doing the curbside takeout for quite some time, even after the dining room opens.”
That will come as good news to a lot of people.
Maximillians
8314 Chapel Hill Road, Cary
919-465-2455 or maximilliansgrill.com
Facebook: facebook.com/maximilliansgrillandwinebar
To order, call the restaurant Wednesday-Saturday any time after the menu is posted (usually by noon). Pickup is between 3 p.m. and 8 p.m.
Takeout Tales
I have invited readers to share their restaurant delivery and curbside pickup and experiences. Even though dining rooms are open at partial capacity, I know many restaurants are continuing just with takeout. So email me at ggcox55@gmail.com, with a description of your experience. I’ll publish as many as I can (edited as needed for brevity and clarity) in this space.
Manchester’s Grill
Donna C. gives a shoutout to a longtime North Raleigh favorite:
“I wanted to let you know about our experience with takeout from Manchester’s Grill in North Raleigh. We used to frequent them quite a bit and have gotten their food to go over the last several weeks. They are set up very well for curbside pickup, which makes getting your orders go quickly.
“One of the owners has been outside to get our orders for us each time we got their food to-go. They are very appreciative of the community support and even have a statement to that effect on their website. Their restaurant used to be like going to Cheers, in the neighborhood bar type of feeling, so we look forward to when they reopen.”
Mi Calvillo
Frank L. sings the praises of a Ninth Street newcomer serving up authentic Mexican fare:
“We have had three really good takeout meals from Mi Calvillo on Ninth Street in Durham. Red (cheese) and green (chicken) enchiladas, camarones endiablados (spicy shrimp), shrimp tacos, etc. All excellent. Family restaurant. Easy parking and pickup across from Harris Teeter. Highly recommended.”
Cantina 18
Linda P. offers another Mexican option (this one in Cameron Village), where owner/chef Jason Smith is now supplementing the regular menu with a few favorites from 18 Seaboard, his beloved flagship restaurant that closed last year.
“We are one of many who were disappointed when 18 Seaboard closed. Now Jason Smith, the owner/chef, has added some of the best of the 18 Seaboard items to the Cantina 18 take out menu. Fantastic! Gracious service, easy ordering, and wonderful food! What’s not to love?”