Food & Drink

NC just took home 3 James Beard Awards. Here’s what you should know about the restaurants

Get a taste of authentic Indian street food at Chai Pani.
Get a taste of authentic Indian street food at Chai Pani.

North Carolina’s restaurant industry collected three James Beard Awards June 13, including Outstanding Restaurant in the country.

The prestigious awards, referred to as the Oscars of the culinary world, were presented in Chicago. They recognize chefs, restaurants, bar programs and hospitality leaders across the United States.

For many restaurants, they can represent a major boost in publicity and attention. And while the awards have historically gone to restaurants and chefs in major cities, North Carolina has been part of the conversation.

“There’s a burst of culinary talent here,” said Ricky Moore, chef and owner of Saltbox Seafood Joint in Durham. He took home the award for Best Chef: Southeast.

“People who are really into it, on fire about it. There are people who really want to be true cooks and talk about the cuisine in our region. And because of that we’re in the conversation today with other destinations in the country. Charleston, New York, San Francisco, Chicago.”

North Carolina chefs dominated the nominations for Best Chef: Southeast this year. Moore was joined by Cheetie Kumar of Garland in Raleigh; Charlotte’s Greg Collier of Leah & Louise and Katie Button of Asheville’s Cúrate. Alley Twenty Six in Durham was a finalist for Outstanding Bar program.

Here’s who took home awards from North Carolina.

Maneet Chauhan presents Durham, NC chef Ricky Moore of Saltbox Seafood Joint the award for Best Chef: Southeast during the 2022 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards at Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 13, 2022 in Chicago, Illinois.
Maneet Chauhan presents Durham, NC chef Ricky Moore of Saltbox Seafood Joint the award for Best Chef: Southeast during the 2022 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards at Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 13, 2022 in Chicago, Illinois. Jeff Schear Getty Images for James Beard Foundation

Chai Pani, Asheville

Asheville’s Chai Pani won for Outstanding Restaurant, the top James Beard Award for restaurants. Owned by Meherwan Irani, Chai Pani has been one of downtown Asheville’s signature restaurants for more than a decade, building a menu around Indian Street Food.

Irani has been nominated for Best Chef-Southeast five times before. This was the first year the restaurant itself was nominated and became a finalist, The Citizen-Times reports.

Cúrate owners Félix Meana and owner-chef Katie Button accept the James Beard Award for Outstanding Hospitality during the 2022 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards at Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 13, 2022 in Chicago, Illinois.
Cúrate owners Félix Meana and owner-chef Katie Button accept the James Beard Award for Outstanding Hospitality during the 2022 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards at Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 13, 2022 in Chicago, Illinois. Jeff Schear Getty Images for James Beard Foundation

Cúrate, Asheville

One of North Carolina’s top restaurants, Cúrate in Asheville, won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Hospitality, which recognizes the dining experience and front-of-house workers. Cúrate is owned by married couple Katie Button and Felix Meana and in 2019 was named one of Food & Wine’s 13 most important restaurants of the decade.

Button has been a frequent James Beard nominee. She was a finalist in the Southeast chef category this year as well as in 2018, 2019 and 2020. In 2014, she was a nominee for Rising Star Chef of the Year (now known as Emerging Chef.) The restaurants were not given out in 2020 and 2021.

Ricky Moore, Saltbox Seafood Joint, Durham

Moore won his first James Beard Award Monday for Best Chef: Southeast for Saltbox Seafood Joint in Durham. Moore was previously a semifinalist for the award in 2020.

He’s a Culinary Institute of America grad and Army veteran, but after years in fine dining, he built Saltbox as an ode to the Eastern North Carolina seafood joints he knew growing up. The fish is flash fried, highly seasoned and some of the freshest diners will find in any restaurant, coming in daily from the coast.

“I want to shout out North Carolina Fisher folk,” Moore said Monday night in his acceptance speech. “What that means is fisher men and women.”

Chef Ricky Moore writes the days menu on the chalkboards Wednesday June 15, 2022, before lunch service at his Durham restaurant, Saltbox Seafood Joint. “After all of these years, I’ve never had paper menus,” says Moore who received the award for Best Chef: Southeast on Monday night in Chicago at the James Beard Foundation’s Awards.
Chef Ricky Moore writes the days menu on the chalkboards Wednesday June 15, 2022, before lunch service at his Durham restaurant, Saltbox Seafood Joint. “After all of these years, I’ve never had paper menus,” says Moore who received the award for Best Chef: Southeast on Monday night in Chicago at the James Beard Foundation’s Awards. Juli Leonard jleonard@newsobserver.com

North Carolina James Beard Award winners

The restaurants and chefs join a small but illustrious group of restaurateurs who have won the culinary awards. Here’s who has won in previous years.

Ashley Christensen of Raleigh’s Poole’s Diner, who won Outstanding Chef in the country in 2019 and Best Chef: Southeast in 2014.

Andrea Reusing of Lantern in Chapel Hill, who won Best Chef: Southeast in 2011.

Karen Barker of Magnolia Grill in Durham won Outstanding Pastry Chef in the country in 2003.

Ben Barker of Magnolia Grill, who won Best Chef: Southeast in 2000.

Meherwan Irani, chef and owner of Chai Pani, a restaurant in Asheville, accepts the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant during the 2022 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards at Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 13, 2022 in Chicago, Illinois.
Meherwan Irani, chef and owner of Chai Pani, a restaurant in Asheville, accepts the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant during the 2022 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards at Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 13, 2022 in Chicago, Illinois. Jeff Schear Getty Images for James Beard Foundation

This story was originally published June 13, 2022 at 11:28 PM.

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Drew Jackson
The News & Observer
Drew Jackson writes about restaurants and dining for The News & Observer and The Herald-Sun, covering the food scene in the Triangle and North Carolina.
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