Food & Drink

One of Durham’s top chefs is set to unveil a new downtown restaurant

The sunlit tables of the new M Hansik in Durham, the latest restaurant from acclaimed chef Michael Lee.
The sunlit tables of the new M Hansik in Durham, the latest restaurant from acclaimed chef Michael Lee. Drew Jackson
Key Takeaways
Key Takeaways

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  • M Hansik will open June 24 as Michael Lee’s newest downtown Durham restaurant.
  • The restaurant will serve small shared plates and larger Korean dishes for dinner.
  • M Hansik will operate Wednesday through Sunday at 501 Washington St. in Durham.

The food at M Hansik in Durham is often wheeled through the dining room on carts. This is probably for convenience, but it also achieves an element of performance, catching the eye-levels of sitting diners with pedestals of fried chicken, sizzling ribbons of pork belly and long platters of charred lasagna.

M Hansik opens June 24 as the newest restaurant in the Michael Lee empire. The star chef of M Sushi, M Tempura and M Kokko built M Hansik as a traditional Korean restaurant, taking over the former Plum space near Durham’s Geer Street district.

Lee said M Hansik is his group’s first “reputable, full-blown Korean restaurant,” with a menu of traditional Korean techniques and flavors with modern interpretations.

“The menu will change all the time, but this is our interpretation of a traditional Korean restaurant,” Lee said in a phone interview. “But with our own twist.”

Decorative kimchi urns stand on a table in the middle of the dining room of the new M Hansik in Durham.
Decorative kimchi urns stand on a table in the middle of the dining room of the new M Hansik in Durham. jdjackson@newsobserver.com Drew Jackson

The former Plum dining room has been updated with dark woods and rich jade banquettes.

M Hansik menu

On the menu, M Hansik is built like a Korean tapas restaurant, with servers recommending two or three shared plates per person.

Chef Michael Lee surveys the dining room of his new restaurant M Hansik in Durham.
Chef Michael Lee surveys the dining room of his new restaurant M Hansik in Durham. jdjackson@newsobserver.com Drew Jackson

Small plates include steamed kimchi dumplings, crispy fried chicken wings with a gochujang dipping sauce, a tender hamachi crudo and a Korean blood sausage. At a media preview last week, a two-sheet lasagna was popular in the dining room, where curled waves of baked pasta sheets were stuffed with black bean sauce, minced pork and a béchamel sauce.

Larger dishes include grilled beef short ribs and spicy pork belly, a traditional kimchi soup, bibimbap beef tartare and a Korean paella.

Jjajiang, a two-sheet lasagna dish stuffed with black bean and minced pork and baked with a bechamel sauce is on the opening menu of the new M Hansik in Durham.
Jjajiang, a two-sheet lasagna dish stuffed with black bean and minced pork and baked with a bechamel sauce is on the opening menu of the new M Hansik in Durham. jdjackson@newsobserver.com Drew Jackson

On the drinks side, M Hansik partnered with Durham’s Fullsteam Brewing for a house rice lager, made with kolsch yeast. Other drinks include draft beer and wine and a seasonal cocktail list, featuring a Sungold Fizz, a gin drink made with lemon and sungold tomatoes.

A Korean crudo of marinated hamachi is on the opening menu of the new M Hansik in Durham.
A Korean crudo of marinated hamachi is on the opening menu of the new M Hansik in Durham. jdjackson@newsobserver.com Drew Jackson

M restaurants

M Hansik is Lee’s seventh Triangle restaurant, an empire that began with the acclaimed M Sushi and grew to the ramen and noodle shop M Kokko, the fry bar M Tempura, M Izakaya and M Pocha.

M Hansik is located at 501 Washington St. in Durham and will be open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday.

The fried chicken at M Hansik in Durham, served with a gochujang dipping sauce.
The fried chicken at M Hansik in Durham, served with a gochujang dipping sauce. jdjackson@Newsobserver.com Drew Jackson
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Drew Jackson
The News & Observer
Drew Jackson writes about restaurants and dining for The News & Observer and The Herald-Sun, covering the food scene in the Triangle and North Carolina.
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