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North Carolina orders another round of cocktails-to-go. But is it helping bars?

Lilianna Ballace, owner of RaleighÕs William & Company, on Wednesday, Jan. 27, 2021 after Gov. Roy Cooper extended cocktails-to-go in North Carolina until March 31. Ballace can count on one hand how many cocktails-to-go the Person Street bar sells each weeks, usually one or two.
Lilianna Ballace, owner of RaleighÕs William & Company, on Wednesday, Jan. 27, 2021 after Gov. Roy Cooper extended cocktails-to-go in North Carolina until March 31. Ballace can count on one hand how many cocktails-to-go the Person Street bar sells each weeks, usually one or two. jleonard@newsobserver.com

North Carolina is extending its pandemic-related easing of state liquor laws, allowing cocktails-to-go for at least another two months.

In December, North Carolina joined the majority of states in allowing bars and restaurants to package mixed drinks for takeout, a move meant to give the struggling hospitality industry another means of income.

On Wednesday, Gov. Roy Cooper extended cocktails-to-go in North Carolina until March 31.

Lynn Minges, executive director of the North Carolina Restaurant and Lodging Association, a restaurant lobbying group that helped push for cocktails-to-go, said the measure had helped businesses.

“It’s worked well for most who have taken advantage of the off premises mixed beverage provision,” Minges said. “Cocktails to go was never intended to be a game-changer. It’s just offers incremental additional revenue for many restaurants. Our members have indicated there has been strong interest and higher ticket prices. It’s encouraging; restaurants will take every bit of revenue they can get.”

A sign near the entrance of RaleighÕs William & Company, on Wednesday, Jan. 27, 2021. Gov. Roy Cooper has extended cocktails-to-go in North Carolina until March 31.
A sign near the entrance of RaleighÕs William & Company, on Wednesday, Jan. 27, 2021. Gov. Roy Cooper has extended cocktails-to-go in North Carolina until March 31. Juli Leonard jleonard@newsobserver.com

No windfall, but ‘something to build on’

Cooper signed an executive order in December allowing to-go cocktails for one month. The idea of takeout cocktails was left off of an early COVID relief bill in North Carolina’s General Assembly, failing to get enough legislative support. While restaurants have struggled through COVID-related restrictions, surviving on limited takeout sales and indoor dining, bars have been largely closed.

In Hillsborough, Eryk Pruitt’s Yonder Bar opened up in October when North Carolina bars were allowed limited outdoor operations. He’s since added cocktails-to-go, saying the takeout drinks aren’t a windfall, but they are helping.

“Last week a group of people showed up after 9 p.m., but we weren’t able to serve them because of the curfew,” Pruitt said. “Instead of telling them no, we suggested they take drinks to-go back to their hotel room.”

Pruitt has been critical of the state’s decision to keep bars closed for most of 2020, despite restaurants, breweries and hotel bars being allowed to open. Now, even with limited operations, he’s said he’s appreciative for what his bar is able to do.

“It’s not perfect, but it’s something to build on,” Pruitt said. “We’re worlds better than our situation in June or July.”

The challenge for bars, especially ones selling mixed drinks, is capturing the experience of a cocktail in a take-home plastic jar. Pruitt said Yonder Bar is working on its packaging, but has left one of its most popular drinks, a frose, or frozen rose wine served in a mason jar, off the takeout menu.

The current stay-at-home order cuts off in-person alcohol sales at 9 p.m. and imposes a 10 p.m. curfew for non-essential businesses. Restaurants are able to continue takeout sales, but Yonder closes at 10 out of fear of risking the curfew.

“I never knew the apocalypse would have such fine print,” Pruitt said.

Customers order a drink at RaleighÕs William & Company, on Wednesday, Jan. 27, 2021. Gov. Roy Cooper has extended cocktails-to-go in North Carolina until March 31.
Customers order a drink at RaleighÕs William & Company, on Wednesday, Jan. 27, 2021. Gov. Roy Cooper has extended cocktails-to-go in North Carolina until March 31. Juli Leonard jleonard@newsobserver.com

‘Didn’t help at all’

Liliana Ballace, owner of Raleigh’s William & Company, can count on one hand how many cocktails-to-go the Person Street bar sells each week, usually one or two. The big sellers are sangria and margarita, drinks regulars ordered lots of before the pandemic.

“To-go drinks really didn’t help at all,” said Ballance. “I’m hoping for a little change in the (executive) order, allowing people inside and increasing the revenue.”

William & Company, or WillCo to many, was one of the Person Street district’s most popular bars. It had neighborhood regulars and a loyal following without the support of a website. Now, with many restaurants and bars relying on online ordering systems to handle takeout, WillCo still relies on customers making the trip to its 616 N. Person Street doorstep. Some do, Ballance said, but that business is a trickle.

“Some nights it’s not worth opening the doors,” Ballance said. “We’re in one of the best neighborhoods and got so much local support. But I take it two weeks at a time, just trying to come up with something that will work.”

She called January the worst month the bar has ever had. She used to go through a case of limes in two days, she said, now it takes a week to use a bag of limes.

“I said we’ll be here on the other side of this, but I’m not sure,” Ballance said. “Maybe there’s no light at the end of the tunnel.”

This story was originally published January 28, 2021 at 7:30 AM.

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Drew Jackson
The News & Observer
Drew Jackson writes about restaurants and dining for The News & Observer and The Herald-Sun, covering the food scene in the Triangle and North Carolina.
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