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‘Big Ed’ Watkins, founder of his namesake country cooking restaurant, dies from COVID

“Big Ed” Watkins makes sure everyone tries his chicken and dumplings as a group of British journalists dine at his restaurant at Raleigh’s City Market in 2000.
“Big Ed” Watkins makes sure everyone tries his chicken and dumplings as a group of British journalists dine at his restaurant at Raleigh’s City Market in 2000. News & Observer file photo

Edward “Big Ed” Watkins, the restaurant owner who kept country cooking alive in downtown Raleigh, has died. He was 88.

Watkins, the founder of Big Ed’s Restaurant, died Tuesday morning from COVID-19-related pneumonia, his wife, Lynda Watkins, said in a phone interview. His death was first reported by WRAL.

Three weeks earlier, Watkins had been seriously injured in a car wreck while driving back home from the restaurant, his wife said, suffering cracked ribs and a cut on his head. He later contracted COVID at a rehabilitation facility while recovering from the accident.

Lynda Watkins said he first tested positive for COVID around two weeks ago, but that his health had improved before going into cardiac arrest Tuesday morning.

“They wouldn’t let anyone go to him, because of the COVID,” she said. “That’s what hurts so much.”

“Big Ed” Watkins operates the register at his City Market restaurant in 2004.
“Big Ed” Watkins operates the register at his City Market restaurant in 2004. Travis Long tlong@newsobserver.com

The first Big Ed’s Restaurant opened in 1958 and other Wake County restaurants followed, his wife said.

In 1989, Big Ed’s City Market opened in downtown Raleigh, bringing farmhouse-style country cooking to the capital city. The restaurant remains famous for its sizable biscuits and pancakes and for still serving traditional dishes like hog brains and scrambled eggs.

“He grew up in the country and was a country man,” Lynda Watkins said. “We liked home-cooked food, and we figured that’s what people really wanted.”

“Big Ed” Watkins retired in 2006, selling Big Ed’s to Lynn and Sam Hobgood, who have opened two new Big Ed’s in recent years, with locations in North Raleigh and Garner.

“We’re very saddened to hear of the passing of Big Ed’s founder Ed Watkins,” owner Sam Hobgood said. “The Big Ed’s family sends prayers and good wishes out to the Watkins family.

“Big Ed was a career restaurateur,” Hobgood said. “His presence was important to the community and the culture of the community in downtown Raleigh.”

Hobgood said “Big Ed” Watkins continued to dine in the restaurant, nearly every day, after selling it 15 years ago, saying that he often ordered collard greens and country ham. Hobgood said that six employees who worked for “Big Ed” still work in the restaurant.

“He has always been supportive of the restaurant and continued to come and dine with us,” Hobgood said. “He was there even during these times, which says a lot about his character.”

This story was originally published February 2, 2021 at 5:17 PM.

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Drew Jackson
The News & Observer
Drew Jackson writes about restaurants and dining for The News & Observer and The Herald-Sun, covering the food scene in the Triangle and North Carolina.
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