After Hurricane Dorian, Ocracoke recovers one meal at a time

It all started with a donation of 600 pounds of chicken.

That was the impetus behind the Ocracoke Strong Kitchen, now serving or coordinating a community lunch every day on Ocracoke Island in the aftermath of Hurricane Dorian.

When the hurricane hit on Sept. 6, up to seven feet of sound surge flooding damaged homes and businesses, destroyed vehicles and displaced hundreds of the island’s 900 residents. Volunteer groups descended on the island to help clear debris and provide meals. Once that majority of volunteers departed and the islanders were left on their own, there was still a need.

That’s when Jason Wells, owner of Jason’s Restaurant, and several other residents turned that donated chicken into a community dinner. Wells’ restaurant was flooded so they borrowed another restaurant kitchen to make the meal. Afterward, Wells said he thought: “Maybe we should just keep doing that.”

Wells’ efforts were helped by food left behind by other volunteer groups, donated food or credit via US Foods and Sysco, two large food distributors, and up to $5,000 in cash donations. Over the next few weeks, a routine developed: Wells and postmaster Celeste Brooks coordinated a core group of volunteers to make and serve lunch three days a week at the island’s community center. They serve between 250 and 600 people, including the middle and high school students on weekdays. The other days, a meal is provided by a rotating list of off-island food trucks, the Hyde County Mennonites and a group that Wells calls the Lovely Latina Ladies, about 15 residents who make tacos to tamales.

Last month, my husband, 8-year-old daughter and myself spent a morning volunteering at the Ocracoke Strong Kitchen, serving chefs salads and pound cake to about 250 people. We sliced cake, washed dishes and took out the trash. At a time when it would be understandable to be down or discouraged, angry or frustrated, we were impressed by how the people on Ocracoke were taking care of each other.

Wells believes the the winter will be hard for many Ocracoke residents. Islanders are dependent upon tourism dollars for their income. The fall tourist season has been lost since the island has been closed to visitors for three months. Even though the island is slated to reopen on Dec. 2, the tourism season won’t get into high gear until the spring. Wells figures those islanders who are eligible for unemployment will see those checks end around the first of the year. “I think that’s when people are going to feel the financial crunch,” Wells said. “They are really going to need that free lunch at that time.”

When the island reopens, Wells and Brooks hope to continue serving lunch three days a week to the couple hundred residents who really need it. It’s a delicate balance. Wells wants those who have income or who are back at work to spend money at the Variety Store, the island’s main grocery, or restaurants that will need the business. He also recognizes that some islanders will still be in need.

There are lots of ways to help Ocracoke recover. You can buy holiday presents online from Ocracoke businesses. You can book your vacation now for next year. Or in the afterglow of a delicious Thanksgiving meal, you can donate money to the Ocracoke Strong Kitchen to help these folks who want nothing more than to be able to welcome you back to their island.

Donations to the Ocracoke Strong Kitchen can be sent to Life Saving Church, c/o Pastor Ivey Belch, 459 Lighthouse Road, Ocracoke, NC 27960. Please list Ocracoke Strong Kitchen in the memo line.

This story was originally published November 25, 2019 at 12:00 AM with the headline "After Hurricane Dorian, Ocracoke recovers one meal at a time."