The Menu: Plates spins a delectable seasonal menu
Plates
☆☆☆☆
301 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh
Originally reviewed by Greg Cox on 4/18/2014
Entering Plates, your eye is drawn to a colorful display of plates on the left wall. An eclectic collection embracing everything from English Blue Willow china to Polish folk art pottery . . . The plates are a nod to the restaurant’s name, of course. Turns out they’re also an apt metaphor for owner/chef Steve Day’s food, which is as refined as porcelain and at the same time as unpretentious as everyday stoneware.
Time and again, Day delivers with a seasonally evolving menu that, in a highly trained culinary circus act, deftly keeps multiple plates spinning in the air, all the while making it look easy.
Take the sweet potato-coconut curry soup he offered recently. A deceptively simple dish, the soup pairs two inherently sweet ingredients without letting the sweetness dominate. At the same time, those ingredients are held in exquisite balance in a way that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
Read the full review and others at our restaurant review archive, themenunc.com.
This story was originally published September 7, 2016 at 11:15 AM with the headline "The Menu: Plates spins a delectable seasonal menu."