Food & Drink

Stunning new coffee shop and bar opens in Durham from James Beard nominated chef

Inspired by the water-filled caves around Tulum Mexico, the new coffee shop and cocktail bar Aaktun is a new kind of Durham oasis.

The latest from the prolific Mezcalito hospitality group and acclaimed chef Oscar Diaz, Aaktun Coffee + Bar opened this week at 704 Ramseur St., next door to the popular Mexican restaurant, Little Bull. Diaz and Mezcalito first teamed up to open Little Bull in Durham in 2023.

Aaktun takes its cues from the cenotes around Tulum, the cavernous swimming holes lit by the sun above. Diaz, a two-time James Beard semifinalist, said the former one-story bank building felt like a cave before its renovation, with the only natural light coming from a pair of front windows. With the addition of a few skylights, tropical plants, pink suede banquettes and orange juice-colored bar stools, diners will feel transported.

“There’s a lot of escapism in the design,” Diaz said in a phone interview. “You kind of forget where you’re at.”

Aaktun continues a trend of all-day spaces in the Triangle, offering coffee and breakfast sandwiches in the morning, bites for lunch and cocktails, ceviche and grilled skewers at night.

Aaktun Coffee+Bar opened this week in Durham, next door to the city’s popular Mezcalito Mexican restaurant.
Aaktun Coffee+Bar opened this week in Durham, next door to the city’s popular Mezcalito Mexican restaurant. jdjackson@newsobserver.com Drew Jackson

Aaktun Coffee + Bar menu

For the daytime, Aaktun is a narrow coffee shop with dark exposed brick walls and picnic tables out front. The full espresso bar makes drinks using beans from Durham roaster Little Waves.

Like any cave, most of the wonders lie within.

A dark hallway next to the coffee bar opens up into the sprawling tropical dining room.

“One of the things I’ve noticed in myself and my partners is we really like design,” Diaz said. “The front is a sunny coffee shop and the back bar is Tiki-inspired. Usually with most of my concepts there’s an identity to it. We wanted it to have a Tulum feel.”

All-day restaurants in the Triangle

Diaz and Mezcalito are among the Triangle’s busiest restaurateurs this year. Beyond Aaktun, there’s the taqueria Tataco opening in Durham’s GeerHouse development and a new concept opening in downtown Clayton. Diaz is also nearing completion on Adios at Raleigh-Durham International Airport.

Aaktun builds on the growing trend of all-day restaurant spaces in the Triangle, joining the recently opened Birdie’s in downtown Raleigh, Good Graces coming to North Hills and Redstart Takeaway in Durham.

Diaz said that the frequent pivoting forced on restaurant owners during the pandemic is leading to concepts that can be multiple things at once.

“We knew we couldn’t just open a coffee shop,” Diaz said. “Things are getting expensive. I’ve learned that the business is four walls. We’re really learning to treat the business as a living, breathing thing.”

That means Aaktun has a launching off point, but will change and evolve, Diaz said. It means a menu with Spam fried rice with pineapples, Peruvian-Asian wings, tacos, poke bowls and eventually oysters and a late night menu.

How to visit Aaktun

Aaktun Coffee + Bar, 704 Ramseur St. in Durham

919-251-9862, aaktun.info

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This story was originally published October 23, 2024 at 3:10 PM.

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Drew Jackson
The News & Observer
Drew Jackson writes about restaurants and dining for The News & Observer and The Herald-Sun, covering the food scene in the Triangle and North Carolina.
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